Newsletter: Life on the Ranch & The Palo Duro Canyon
This week has been more of the same—cold temperatures mean more ice chopping, and we’ve been spending extra time in the canyon feeding and caring for the cows and their calves. If you missed our last two newsletters, we shared more about life in the canyon and the challenges of ice chopping.
For this edition, I wanted to dive into some general information about the Palo Duro Canyon, the landscape that gives Harrell Ranch its character.
The Canyon’s Scale & Formation
Palo Duro Canyon stretches 120 miles long, up to 20 miles wide, and plunges as deep as 1,000 feet. It’s what makes our ranch unique, as we work both the upper flats and the rugged canyon lands.
The canyon was formed by erosion over thousands of years, primarily carved by the Red River. That river, which spans over 2,000 miles and eventually joins the Mississippi, isn’t what it used to be due to drought and other factors—but it can still flood.
The Name & The Land
"Palo Duro" is Spanish for "hardwood," a nod to the many hardy shrubs and trees found throughout the canyon. Cedar shrubs, in particular, thrive on our flats where our cattle graze and spread quickly. Because of this, we have to regularly grub—removing shrubs with excavators to maintain healthy pastureland.
The Canyon’s History
Palo Duro was one of the last strongholds of the Comanche in 1874-75, during what became known as the Red River Wars. The U.S. Army’s campaign to relocate them to Oklahoma led to brutal stories—soldiers dying from dehydration, some so desperate for moisture they sucked their own blood out of small cuts just to wet their sandpaper-dry tongues. The Army also slaughtered 1,400 Comanche horses to weaken their resistance.
After the wars, the canyon saw its first major rancher, Charles Goodnight. Then, in 1917, 37 years after the Red River Wars, the Harrell family founded Harrell Ranch. Ever since, the canyon has been home to many ranching families. Fun fact: The final scene of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade was filmed on one of the ranches in this area.
Palo Duro Canyon State Park
If you’re ever in the area, the state park is worth a visit. Established in 1934, it spans 22,000 acres, making it the second-largest state park in Texas. You can explore miles of trails, ride horseback, stay in a cabin, or even zipline across parts of the canyon. But if you do visit, avoid the summer—temperatures at the canyon’s base can hit 120°F or more.
A Landscape for the Tough
Palo Duro is breathtaking but unforgiving. Without modern roads and infrastructure, it would be nearly impossible to enjoy. The canyon itself is a rugged, desert-like mountain landscape, but at the bottom, it’s lush with pastures and water—great for cattle, but tough for ranchers. You have to be a tough sucker to work this land.
We love the view from our ranch house at the top, and no matter the challenges, there’s nowhere else we’d rather be.
See y’all in next week’s newsletter!
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